Tips for Obedience Training

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• Body Shape & Health: Dachshunds are long-backed and short-legged, so avoid forcing them to climb stairs or jump (to protect their spine) and use ramps or lifting assistance when needed. Always use a well-fitting harness rather than a collar to support their neck/back. Keep them at a healthy weight and exercise them gently to prevent IVDD (disc disease) later in life.
• Temperament: Dachshunds are bold, independent scent-hounds with a bit of a stubborn streak. They may get distracted by smells during potty breaks. Be patient and keep them on leash in the potty area so they focus on the task. Do short training sessions and use extremely high-value treats for motivation (hot dogs, cheese, etc.). Avoid harsh corrections; dachshunds respond best to praise and treats.
• Scent-Driven Behavior: As scent-hounds, dachshunds will often want to sniff around rather than go. Take them directly to a designated potty spot (same spot, same door) and stand quietly until they eliminate. Limit sniffing time by walking them or gently guiding them if they get sidetracked. Once at the spot, use a consistent verbal cue like “Go potty”. If they begin to play or wander, try going back inside for a moment then outside again.
• Reputation: Mini dachshunds are often thought “hard” to house-train, but this is usually due to inconsistent methods. Dachshund experts note that training can be straightforward if owners are diligent. In fact, successful training relies more on routine and owner consistency than breed magic.

• Puppies (8–16 weeks): These very young dachshunds have minimal bladder control – roughly 1 hour per month of age. For example, an 8-week-old may need a break every 2 hours. Follow a strict schedule: take the puppy out first thing in the morning, after meals/drinking, after naps, after play, and at bedtime. (A useful chart from veterinary behaviorists recommends ~8–10 potty breaks per day for 6–14 week-old pups, dropping to ~6–8 per day by 14–20 weeks.) Crate-training is ideal for this stage: use a crate or small pen as their “den” when you can’t supervise. Puppies should not be left in a crate for more than 2–3 hours at this age, or they will be forced to soil it.
• Older Puppies (4–6 months): By about 4–6 months, most dachshund puppies can be depended on to eliminate outdoors if properly trained. Increase time between breaks gradually, aiming for every 3–4 hours when awake. Continue using a crate or confinement at night or when away (see Methods below). Remain consistent: feed on a schedule and plan outings after each meal.
• Adult & Rescue Dogs: Treat a new adult dachshund (rescued or adopted) as if house-training must begin from scratch. Don’t assume prior training transfers to your home: new smells and rules confuse them. Reestablish a routine of frequent outdoor breaks and supervision. Use praise and treats just as you would for a puppy, and remain patient – even adult dogs can learn new habits. If an older dog has accidents, check their health (see Red Flags). Clean any soiled spots well with enzyme cleaners (dogs will return to any place where they detect odor).

• General Timeline: A helpful rule of thumb is that a puppy can hold bladder roughly 1 hour per month of age. So at 2 months, ~2 hours; at 3 months, ~3 hours, etc. However, this is a maximum—always err on the side of more frequent breaks. A 6-month-old is often reliably trained, but it can take up to a year for full control. Adult dogs usually manage several hours with established habits.
• Sample Break Schedule: Take your dachshund to potty:
  • First thing in the morning (even 4–5am for very young pups).
  • After each meal or drink (5–15 minutes post-meal).
  • After naps/sleep (any nap).
  • After play or excitement.
  • Before bedtime and at least once overnight for puppies (pups may need a last trip out even at midnight until ~5–6 months).
  • Every 1–2 hours when awake, and every 4 hours at a minimum.
• Tracking: Keep a log of feeding and potty times. This helps you learn your dog’s pattern and anticipate needs. You can use a simple app or notebook. Recording accidents also helps you identify problem times (e.g. “always accidents late evening” = adjust schedule).

Crate Training: Use a sturdy crate or enclosed pen as a “den.” Dogs naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area. Make the crate cozy (bedding, toys) and sized just large enough for your dachshund to sit, stand, turn around, and lie down. Always use positive association (feeding meals, treats inside crate). Never scold a dog for whining—simply ignore it until they’re quiet, then reward calmness. When you must leave the dog unattended, confine them to the crate for no more than 3–4 hours (even shorter for young puppies). If you need to be out longer, consider a pet sitter or create a larger pen area with a designated potty spot (see below).

Supervised Confinement: When at home, closely supervise your dachshund or keep them on a short leash attached to you. Alternatively use baby-gates or exercise pens to limit access to carpeted areas. This prevents “sneaking off” to pee. If you cannot watch your pup, confine them in a small puppy-proof area with toys and a bed. Some owners use a leash-drag technique (attach a lightweight leash and tuck it under your shirt) so they can see and correct any accidents immediately.

Outdoor Potty Training: Take your dachshund outside to a consistent spot each time (same door, same area of yard) to build habit and allow scent marking cues. Stand quietly and wait; you may need to allow 5–10 minutes of sniffing. Use a short leash initially so puppy can’t run off and play instead of going. Give a cue word like “Go potty” while they eliminate. Immediately praise and treat the moment they finish. This reinforces that outside = reward. After they go, play or pet them a bit, then come indoors.

Indoor Potty Pads (Paper Training): For situations where outdoor access is very limited (apartments, extreme weather), some owners use absorbent puppy pads indoors. This can be helpful temporarily or for very young puppies. However, use pads cautiously: once introduced, your dachshund may view the pads as the appropriate toilet and resist moving outside. Dachshund Health UK warns that indoor pads “simply reinforce the idea” of house elimination. If you choose pads, designate a single pad in a protected area and use it only until the puppy consistently goes outdoors. Gradually move the pad closer to the door and then outside if you eventually want them to switch. Always clean around the pad area well to avoid spreading scent of waste.

Positive Reinforcement: Never punish or scold a dachshund for accidents. If you catch them mid-pee indoors, interrupt with a gentle “Ah-ah!” or clap, then immediately take them outside to finish. When they eliminate outside or on the pad correctly, praise lavishly: use happy voice, petting, and give a special treat the instant they finish. Timing is critical – mark or reward within one second of completion so your dog connects the behavior to the reward. A consistent cue (like “Go potty”) helps them understand the desired action. Some owners hang a bell on the door and teach the dog to ring it to signal needing to go out; this can be effective if introduced patiently.

Training Tools: Useful items include a well-fitting harness and short leash for outings, a snug-sized crate, baby gates or pens for confinement, and high-value treats or clicker for marking success. Have a supply of enzymatic cleaner (Nature’s Miracle, Petzyme, Urine Away) on hand to clean accidents. A treat pouch or easy-access container helps you reward quickly. If using a bell, ring it every time you take the dog out so it associates bell→outdoor.

• Interrupt and Redirect: If you see your dachshund starting to potty indoors, interrupt calmly (“Uh-oh!”) and immediately take them to the door or outdoors to finish. Do not punish after the fact – dogs won’t understand retrospective scolding. Praise and treat if they finish outside.
• Thorough Cleanup: Always clean soiled areas thoroughly immediately. Use a pet enzymatic cleaner (e.g. Urine Away, Nature’s Miracle, Simple Solution) that breaks down urine/feces odors. Regular household cleaners won’t remove the scent completely, and lingering smell will encourage your dachshund to re-soil that spot. Blot solid waste with paper towels, then spray generously with enzyme cleaner and let it soak. A second cleaning is often wise.
• Manage Marks: If you catch an accident early, blot it up but do not rub (that can spread odor). Bring any soiled bedding or rugs outside to air out after spot-cleaning indoors. Do not try to clean up by taking the pet to the spot and rubbing its nose in it – this is inhumane and ineffective.
• Monitor Cleaning Impact: Keep children and other pets away from the area until it’s fully cleaned and dry. Some enzymes need time (10+ minutes) to work. After cleaning, ensure the dog passes by the spot so it learns that area is not for elimination.

• Dachshund Stubbornness: If your dachshund seems willfully refusing, remember that “stubborn” often means distracted or confused. Always reward even small successes. Use the absolute best treats (chicken, cheese) and praise. Keep training sessions very short (a few minutes), so the dog doesn’t tune you out. Avoid leaving the dog outdoors alone for too long during training – they may wander or play instead of pottying.
• Small Bladder: Mini dachshunds are tiny – so are their bladders! Even slight pushes on their tummy can make them pee. Expect frequent breaks: a full-grown mini may still need a break every 3–4 hours. When traveling or at night, consider using a potty pad or doggie diaper if you cannot go out.
• Separation Anxiety: Dachshunds are affectionate and can get anxious when left alone. If your dog seems distressed at departure (barking, whining, chewing), counter-condition the crate: leave treats inside, gradually increase crate time, and consider a pheromone diffuser. Give a filled Kong toy or puzzle before leaving. Practice leaving for very short times and returning calmly. Exercise your dachshund before departures, so it’s more likely to rest.
• Marking Behavior: If adult dachshunds (especially intact males) mark indoors, address it quickly. Neuter or spay dogs as recommended by your vet (this often reduces marking). Clean marked spots with an enzyme cleaner. Confine the dog to supervised areas or crate when you can’t watch, and resume normal housetraining steps. If marking occurs after a home change (new furniture, new baby, new pet), be extra vigilant: such changes can trigger territorial marking.
• Feeding & Toilet Link: Regulate feeding times. Do not free-feed (leave food out all day), as unpredictable eating leads to unpredictable pooping. Feed on a set schedule and immediately take the dog out 10–30 minutes after eating. Similarly, allow water until ~30 minutes before bed to reduce nighttime accidents.
• No Signals: Some dachshunds give no obvious warning cues. If yours doesn’t scratch at the door or bark, don’t wait for a signal. Maintain the schedule even if the dog is silent, especially at first. Gradually your dog will learn to show you (a bark or sit by the door is teachable), but start with your schedule, not the dog’s cues.
• Regression: It’s not uncommon for a trained dachshund to have setbacks (e.g., after a move, a new pet, or illness). When accidents resume, go back to basics: reinforce confinement, increase supervision, and re-establish the potty routine. Rule out medical causes if accidents are sudden or accompanied by other symptoms.

Always consider that persistent house-soiling can signal a medical problem. Common issues include urinary tract infections (UTIs), bladder stones, kidney disease, diabetes, or incontinence. Watch for these warning signs:

• Frequent Urination/Dribbling: If your dachshund suddenly needs to pee many times or dribbles urine (especially females), suspect a UTI or sphincter weakness. UTIs often cause straining, discomfort, and accidents. Urinary incontinence (more common in older spayed females) causes drips of urine while lying down. Both are treatable by a vet (medication or supplements).
• Blood or Straining: Blood in the urine or straining to pee indicates infection or stones. See a vet immediately.
• Excess Thirst: Drinking a lot may point to diabetes or kidney issues. Together with accidents, this demands veterinary attention.
• Sudden Regression: If a previously house-trained dog “forgets” overnight or shows discomfort while eliminating, have a vet check for issues. Dachshund Health UK specifically advises vet evaluation if unwanted toileting resumes without an obvious reason.
• Age-related Incontinence: Senior dachshunds often have looser bladder control. Do not scold an elderly dog for leaks. Instead, discuss incontinence medication or supplements with your vet. Ensure easy access to potty areas (raised litter box, puppy pads) and maintain a frequent schedule.

Quickly involve your vet if you suspect a health issue. Early treatment usually restores normal routines.

Older dachshunds may struggle with potty control even if trained. In addition to the above red-flag measures:

• Provide more frequent outings or indoor pee options as needed.
• Consider doggie diapers or indoor turf pads if full-days outside aren’t possible.
• Keep a night-light near the exit door so they can safely find it at dark.
• Pad slippery floors (bath mats, carpets) to help arthritic seniors reach the door without slipping or hesitating.
• Maintain a low-entry crate (no steep climbs) and offer warm, supportive bedding for comfort.
• Above all, stay patient and supportive. Senior dogs may need a little extra help, but they can learn or re-learn house habits with kindness.

• Q: Puppy still peeing at night? Puppies have tiny bladders. You may need one nighttime alarm to take them out. Limit water before bed and optionally use a pee-pad for late-night accidents. Crate them near you – many puppies will whine slightly when they need out.
• Q: Dog ignores the bell/door scratch? Reinforce signals by rewarding any attempt to go near the door. Ring the bell yourself every time you take them out, so they associate the sound with “outside time.” Consistency will eventually teach them.
• Q: Accidents happen only in one spot. Thoroughly clean that spot with enzymes (don’t dilute). Block off or cover that area if possible. Observe if something attracts them there (noise, view). Retrain with closer monitoring.
• Q: Puppy crate-barks when closed. The crate should be a cozy safe space. Use tricks like giving a frozen Kong as you close the door, and step outside briefly before coming back, then reward calm behavior. Ignore whining (unless urgent) but never leave them howling for long, as it increases anxiety. Crate them near where family is, so they feel included.
• Q: Dachshund marks soon after cleaning or arrival of new things. Immediately clean with enzyme. Confine the dog in a small area next to the cleaned spot and reward only outside eliminations for a day or two. If you’ve just moved or changed furniture, expect a “restart” of training.
• Q: Puppy isn’t sleeping in crate. Try not forcing them. Put treats and toys inside and leave door open for them to explore. Bring them to the crate when they’re sleepy and praise them for lying down inside. A ticking clock or heartbeat toy can comfort some puppies.